Crete Senesi | An untouched natural area in southern Tuscany
Crete Senesi is a very special natural area, quiet and almost untouched by tourists. Here you can truly experience the "original" Tuscan landscape: beautiful nature as far as the eye can see, wonderful views, fantastic winding roads – definitely worth a detour. The landscape is fantastically beautiful, rolling hills that change color depending on the season you visit – in fact, I have experienced it changing color from day to day.
Crete Senesi – beautiful landscape as far as the eye can see
Crete Senesi near Siena
Crete Senesi means 'Sienese clay', and the soil's characteristic clay-grey color gives the landscape an appearance often described as "on the moon". This characteristic clay, known as mattaione, is deposits from the Pliocene Sea, which covered the area 2.5 and 4.5 million years ago. Not far from here you will also find the semi-arid area known as Deserto di Accona (Accona desert). Crete Senesi belongs to the Cretaceous system, so they are between 65 and 135 million years old. Which in itself is quite thought-provoking.
Crete Senesi in Tuscany
In this area, as one of the few places in Tuscany, no wine is produced. The soil simply isn't suitable for it. It was originally the poorer area of Tuscany, and here you can still find shepherds at the markets. Be sure to taste the exquisite sheep's cheese and buy the local olive oil to take home.
It is in this area that you will find the most photographed cypress road in the entire Siena province. You could even have a little competition among yourselves to see who takes the most original picture of that very road.
Asciano is the nearest charming town – and you are only 40 minutes from Siena.
The Crete Senesi area offers many other exciting experiences.
Asciano town
The nearest slightly larger village in the Crete Senesi area is Asciano. The main pedestrian street is called "Corso Matteotti". Here you will find shops and cozy restaurants.
I always eat at the restaurant "La Mencia" – Via G. Matteotti 85, Tel. 0577 718227 when I am visiting our holiday homes in the area.
Definitely worth a visit
Dine in the charming courtyard
Thermal baths:
Here are my two recommendations for a full-day experience with thermal baths, wellness, and an energy boost:
Rapolano Terme
Visit the town of Rapolano. A very pleasant small town with 2 spas where you can get beauty treatments or bathe in healing spring water.
Terme di San Giovanni Rapolano
Eroica cycling race in Tuscany
In this agricultural area, only the main roads are asphalted, while the roads to the holiday homes and between the small villages are gravel – they are called "strada bianca" – precisely because the gravel roads in the area are white. Once a year, a Vintage-style, very physically demanding cycling race is organized on these white gravel roads. The so-called Eroica.
There are different route lengths (from 32 km to 209 km) and all routes are on gravel. If you are interested in cycling, it is a fantastic race to participate in. Held in October, but book your holiday home well in advance as it gets booked up quickly.
Eroica cycling race
Tough cycling race on these white gravel roads
Trufffles in the Asciano area
This area of Tuscany is also known for its truffles. My personal favorite dish is actually Tagliolini al tartufo. Thin fresh pasta ribbons with butter and truffles grated on top. Ummm, just the thought makes me blissful. There are 2 truffle festivals held in the Asciano area. In November and in March. A great opportunity to taste this delicacy right after it has been dug out of the ground.
Other things to experience in the Crete Senesi / Asciano area
Every 2nd Sunday of the month, a flea market is held in the historic center of Asciano. Fun heirlooms and lovely junk, but there is a wonderful market atmosphere – and you can combine it with lunch at one of the town's delicious restaurants.
In April there is an artichoke festival in Chiusure – a small charming town close to the Monte Oliveto monastery. The monastery itself, Abbazia di Monte Oliveto, is a must-see when you are in the area.
In May there is a medieval festival in Serre di Rapolano.
September is generally the festival month in Asciano. In the town, you will see flags representing the town's different districts, and a palio race is held here – similar to the famous horse race in Siena, but in Asciano, they use donkeys.
Written by Elisabeth Hjorth
May 2025