Guide: Explore Umbria

Umbria is often called Italy’s green heart, and is a region of medieval towns, olive-covered hills and secluded places that still feel quietly local - and more unspoiled than its famous neighbour, Tuscany. We’ve asked our hosts where to stay, eat and wander, from Perugia’s wine bars and bakeries to Lake Piediluco, Marmore Falls and hidden village squares.

Where to stay

From the hilltop city of Perugia to the stillness of the southern mountains, Umbria offers very different ways to enjoy your holiday. Stay in the center of it all for easy access to wine bars and art, settle near Lake Trasimeno for life by the water, or explore the area around Terni and Stroncone for a holiday with waterfalls and ancient Roman history.

The Perugia area is for travellers who want old stone streets, wine bars, pastry shops and small day trips. Stay here if you like having restaurants, culture and a city life within reach, while still being close to the Umbrian countryside.
Around Assisi, the landscape opens into olive trees, valleys and beautiful views. It is a calm base for travellers who want countryside mornings and the famous town, Assisi close enough for an unhurried visit.

Modern living room with a sculptural stone fireplace, orange lounge chair, teal sofa, wall-mounted lamps, potted plants, coffee tables, and a curved white ceiling

Lake Trasimeno is for slower holidays by the water. Stay near Castiglione del Lago or Passignano sul Trasimeno if you want lake views, island trips, small towns and afternoons that don’t need too much planning.
The hills around Todi and Collazzone are a good fit if you want a car, a view and small places to stop along the way. One host points to a village grocery in Collazzone for cheese and cold cuts, so you can cook an Italian dinner at the holiday home.
The Terni area is for travellers who want nature close by. From here, hosts recommend Marmore Falls, Lake Piediluco, Carsulae and Prati di Stroncone - a mix of waterfalls, Roman history and mountain meadows.

Where to eat

Our hosts’ food tips are less about polished must-visits and more about travelling like a local - breakfast at the bakery, natural wine in Perugia, cheese from a village shop, and dinners that feel rooted in everyday life.

In Perugia, Osteria A Priori is a typical tavern for truffle dishes and a good wine list.
For wine and dinner in Piazza del Duomo, try Bottega del Vino in Perugia.
La Fame in Perugia serves refined food and unusual wines on the city’s artists’ street.
For a dinner with the most beautiful sunset view you should visit Le Terrazze di Properzio.
Sit outside Maramao Pane e Vin in Perugia for typical Umbrian food in the alley.
For a terrace in a local neighbourhood, visit Numero Zero in Perugia.

Woman in a white dress and pink cap sitting in a stone doorway with a wooden bench, in front of a dark storefront with the word “amphora” visible

Quasi 518 in Perugia is the place for natural wine, small snacks and pastrami.
Queue at Lale Bakery in Perugia for freshly baked bread for breakfast.
Near Città di Castello, The Captain’s Inn is a romantic Michelin-recommended dinner spot.
In Collazzone, stop by the small grocery in the town square for cheese and cold cuts.
Near Porano, The Priest’s Bite serves grilled meat with a hot stone at the table.

Hand holding three small harvested squash or zucchini in a grassy garden beside a wooden structure

Two sandwiches in yellow baskets on a blue table, with a Huxley Cold IPA bottle, a metal cup, and a half-full glass on coasters outdoors in sunlight

What to do

In Umbria, the best days are rarely planned down to the last stop. One moment you are standing by a waterfall, the next you are walking through Roman ruins or following a road towards a place you had never heard of before. These are the experiences our hosts think are worth making time for.

The Marmore Waterfalls is a unique nature experience, and a host describes it as “one of Italy’s most spectacular treasures”. The Waterfall is among the highest man-made waterfalls in the world, making it a memorable day out for travellers staying near Terni or Stroncone.
Carsulae is an ancient Roman archaeological site near San Gemini, described by a host as “the ancient Roman city suspended in time”. Visit if you like ruins, quiet landscapes and history without the feeling of a crowded museum.
The Scarzuola is a surreal architectural complex in the Umbrian countryside, built around an old Franciscan convent and designed as a kind of dreamlike “ideal city”. It feels part garden, part theatre and part secret world - visits are guided and should be booked in advance.
In Orvieto, the city’s history continues deep into the volcanic rock it’s built upon. A visit to Orvieto Underground takes you through a cool, silent labyrinth of over 1,200 caves and tunnels carved by hand over centuries.
Around Foligno and further into eastern Umbria, you can make the day more active with river rafting near Serravalle di Norcia or a walk across the Tibetan Bridge near Sellano - two host-recommended ways to experience the region from its wilder side, between water, hills, and open valley views.

Stone house with blue shutters, small patio with outdoor table and chairs, white shade sail, and an olive tree in front, surrounded by greenery

Where to wander

The best way to experience Umbria is to leave space during the day. Follow a river path, walk through a medieval village, or let the road between towns become part of the plan.

Lake Piediluco is for a slow day near the water. A host describes it as “one of the most charming and romantic places in central Italy”, with boats on the lake and views that feel almost painted.
Prati di Stroncone is a natural place to wander if you want mountain air and open views. One host calls it “a natural oasis” with “unspoiled beauty and atmosphere of absolute tranquility”.
Stroncone village is worth exploring on foot, with “quiet alleys, stone arches, houses leaning against each other, and breathtaking panoramic views”, according to one of our hosts.
Near Gualdo Cattaneo, follow the Tevere river walk, Il sentiero del Furioso. A host calls it a “bellissima camminata” just 30 minutes away by car.
Todi is a beautiful medieval town for an unhurried wander, with churches, panoramic views and the Beverly Pepper contemporary art park.