Guide to Pistoia – What to see in Pistoia?

Pistoia

Since my husband's sister lives in Pistoia, I have naturally been to the city many times and I am very fond of it. The city is really worth visiting during a holiday in Tuscany. I find it especially cozy here in the evening – but come in the afternoon so you can see all the monuments and perhaps shop in the very characteristic stores.

Pistoia is a medieval city located between Lucca and Florence. Originally, it was a Roman city that was destroyed by the Germans. The city had its heyday in the 14th century but then had to surrender to Florence and Lucca. Therefore, there is still some rivalry between the cities today – and if I may just mention between the lines that my father-in-law from Lucca never quite approved of his daughter marrying someone from Pistoia.

The city is known for its many artisans, artists, but train production is also very important for the city – yes, this is where the Copenhagen trains we are not entirely satisfied with come from.
Furthermore, Pistoia is the center in Tuscany for plant and flower production. When you drive between Lucca and Pistoia, you will see many large areas with all kinds of plants from the highway.

Pistoia is famous for its plant and flower production

Just before Pistoia, on the right side, you can see a Nursery Park, an innovative project where a large selection of plants and their impact on the atmosphere are cultivated and studied.

One day in Pistoia – this is what you should see in Pistoia

You can easily drive to Pistoia and park in one of the well-marked paid parking spaces, or you can take the train – see times at www.trenitalia.com. Then immediately move into the heart of Pistoia.

First stop on your tour of Pistoia is:

Piazza del Duomo – the square in front of the cathedral – where the city's most important monuments are all gathered:
Il Palazzo Pretorio which is the city's courthouse – the entrance is worth a look.
Il Battistero – The octagonal church, created in white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato.
La Cattedrale di San Zeno – the cathedral itself.

Il Battistero – The octagonal church

Second stop around Pistoia:

From the cathedral, walk along Via degli Orafi to Piazza della Sala. Here you will find "Pozzo del Leoncino". This is the locals' meeting place, both during the day when they are out shopping and in the evening when they meet for an aperitivo or dinner. It's buzzing with life. Cozy restaurants and bars. See below for my recommendations.

Pozzo del Leoncino – the locals' meeting place

Next to it, you'll find Piazzetta degli Ortaggi – which at sunset is the ideal spot for an aperitivo. If you want to be a bit cultural, check out the bronze statue in the middle of the square; "Il giro del sole" made by Barni.
Now you can walk through the narrow streets, with your nose in the air, admiring the historic buildings, beautiful windows, and crooked facades. If you have children with you, you can play a "find the coat of arms" game. Many of the buildings are adorned with the coats of arms of former noble families.

"Il giro del sole" bronze sculpture made by Barni.

Third stop on your tour of Pistoia:

Now you must visit Ospedale del Ceppo; the city's hospital since the 13th century and the underground part of Pistoia. It was actually believed to be a myth that underground tunnels even existed under Pistoia, but in the 70s they were actually found by chance. Today, you can visit Il Museo di Pistoia Sotterranea, as this museum is called, every day with a guide. It's quite exciting and I can highly recommend that tour. While you're there, visit il Museo dell'Ospedale (hospital museum) and l'Anfiteatro Anatomico, which is the world's smallest amphitheater.
I found the Sala Accademica hall quite interesting. Here you can see what surgical instruments doctors have used throughout history – frightening. I'm glad to be born today!

Ospedale del Ceppo; the city's hospital since the 13th century

Last stop is:

The theater il teatro del Funaro.
It is an old sawmill that has been lovingly restored into a theater. Here, about 400 artists; actors, dancers, writers have the opportunity to try out their dreams. Year-round, you can experience various performances in this charming very small theater with only 90 seats. There is a small eatery that I can recommend you try.
I got the feeling of being at a good friend's home. Delicious local dishes at honest prices. The place is part of Slowfood.

The theater il teatro del Funaro – good entertainment and delicious food

What's happening in Pistoia?
Antiques market and Blues festival

On the second Sunday of the month and the Saturday before, a very large and exciting antiques market is held in Pistoia. The quality is quite high; porcelain, silver items, jewelry, and furniture such as cabinets and tables.
There is also a cozy weekly street market on Piazza del Duomo and the surrounding streets. Held every Wednesday between 8 AM and 2 PM.

In July, you can experience the Pistoia Blues Festival. I think that's pretty cool, because international names come – Sting has also performed – but since the festival isn't very well known, the feeling is very local. Great atmosphere in the center.

On July 25th each year, there is a procession in antique costumes to honor Pistoia's patron saint. This experience is also worth taking in if you are in the area.

Every year in July, you can experience the Pistoia Blues Festival

Pistoia Zoo – Zoological Garden – Il Giardino Zoologico di Pistoia

If you have children with you and are holidaying in the Pistoia area, you might also consider taking them to the Zoo for a day. It's an old-fashioned zoo where the animals are in cages, but the advantage of that is that you get very close to them. There are 400 animals spread over an area of 7 hectares, making it one of Italy's largest zoos. It can smell a bit in mid-summer due to the heat!. There are also playgrounds and decent eateries, so it's suitable for a day trip.

If you have more time that day, there's an impressive monastery very close by that you can drive past: "Convento di Giaccherino".
It can be visited at http://www.conventodigiaccherino.it/

The impressive monastery "Convento di Giaccherino"

Where to eat in Pistoia?

In the center of Pistoia, there is no shortage of cozy restaurants or bars. Find Piazza della Sala and the surrounding streets.
Below I list two places that I personally really like.

La Bottegaia

Located right in the center on Piazza della Sala. A wonderful osteria with characteristic wooden tables and a menu that reflects seasonal ingredients. Very Tuscan in expression but with a slightly modern twist. They have a very interesting wine list with both local wines, which I would recommend you try now that you are on holiday in the Pistoia area, or wines from all over Italy. They are part of Slowfood.

La Bottegaia
Via del Lastrone 17
Tel: 0573 365602

La Bottegaia – Very Tuscan in expression but with a slightly modern twist

Voronoi:

A super trendy spot – more youthful. And in the summer, it's a challenge to find an available table outside. They are known for their "VoroAperitivo", which is a very rich buffet with delicacies à la tapas and drinks, including really good mojitos!
They also make delicious fish in the evening, but otherwise, I can also recommend a quick lunch here.

Ristocaffetteria Voronoi
P.tta dell'ortaggio,14/17

Voronoi, try the buffet à la tapas and drinks, otherwise, I can also recommend a quick lunch here

All the eateries in this area are actually quite good and you can get everything from pizza and pasta to meat or fish dishes.

Pistoia is not inferior to many of Tuscany's other beautiful cities when it comes to history, magnificent buildings, art, or atmosphere.
If you also love to follow the life and atmosphere in a smaller city, with a beautiful historic center and plenty of sights and dining options, you will find Pistoia worth a visit.

Looking for a small accommodation with a private pool not far from Pistoia?

If you have any questions about Pistoia, you are always welcome to contact me.